Pre-Trip Checklist
Five to ten minutes before every trip, check the mounting hardware and latches. Most people skip this until the first time they feel the camper shift on a washboard road. The full pre-trip checklist:
- Mounting hardware: Check torque on all mounting bolts. Vibration loosens them over time, especially after off-road use.
- Pop-top latches: Verify all latches engage fully and the pop-top seals when closed.
- Door gaskets: Quick visual check that gaskets are seated properly and not folded or pinched.
- Awning door latches: Test that side and rear doors latch securely. If you've upgraded to Southco compression latches, check they're engaging fully.
- Battery charge: Confirm your house battery is charged. LiFePO4 batteries should read 13.2–13.6V when full.
- Water system: If you carry water, check for leaks at connections and verify tank is filled/drained as planned.
- Roof vent fan: Test that the fan runs on all speeds. Check that the lid opens and closes fully.
- Lights: Turn on interior and exterior lights to confirm they're working.
Post-Trip Care
What to do when you get home:
- Dry the interior: If you had condensation (you will in cold weather), wipe down the crossbeams, walls, and any surfaces with moisture. Leave the pop-top open for an hour in dry weather to air out.
- Clean the T-track: Wipe dirt, sand, and debris from the T-track channels, especially the floor-level tracks that collect the most grit. A stiff brush or compressed air works well.
- Empty and dry the water system: Don't leave standing water in tanks or lines between trips. Drain completely to prevent mold and algae.
- Check for damage: Walk around the camper and look for scratches, dents, or damage from branches or trail debris. Address paint chips on the powder coat with touch-up paint to prevent corrosion.
- Shake out bedding: Remove and air out the mattress if it got damp. Don't store a damp mattress inside a closed camper.
Cleaning
Exterior
- Wash with mild car wash soap and water. A soft sponge or microfiber cloth is all you need.
- Avoid pressure washers directly on seals, gaskets, and the pop-top fabric. High pressure can force water into places it shouldn't go and damage seals over time.
- Powder coat care: The aluminum panels are powder-coated, which is durable but not invincible. For light scratches, a touch-up paint from Tune Outdoor matches the finish. For oxidation, a gentle aluminum polish restores shine.
- Tempered glass panels: Standard glass cleaner (Invisible Glass or similar) works fine. Avoid abrasive cleaners.
Interior
- Surfaces: Wipe down with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid harsh chemicals on the headliner fabric.
- T-track channels: Use a stiff-bristle brush to clean grit from the channels. WD-40 or a dry PTFE lubricant helps T-slot hardware slide freely.
- Pop-top tent fabric: Spot-clean with mild soap and water. Don't use bleach or harsh solvents. If the fabric develops mold or mildew, a dilute vinegar solution (1:4 vinegar to water) is effective.
- Windows and mesh: Wipe glass with glass cleaner. The mesh screens can be gently vacuumed or brushed to remove dust.
Seals & Gaskets
The M1 uses gaskets and weatherstripping (not caulk), so there's no periodic re-caulking. However, gaskets wear over time and need inspection.
What to check
- Door gaskets, the rubber seals around the awning doors and rear hatch. Look for compression set (permanently flattened), cracking, or separation from the frame.
- Pop-top seal, the weatherstripping around the pop-top perimeter. This is the largest and most critical seal on the camper. Check for gaps, tears, or areas where the seal doesn't make consistent contact.
- Window seals: inspect the seals around the tempered glass panels and the mesh window zippers.
When to replace
If a gasket is cracked, permanently compressed, or no longer making consistent contact, replace it. Contact Tune Outdoor for replacement gaskets. They're designed to fit the M1's specific dimensions. Don't substitute generic weatherstripping without verifying the profile matches.
Gasket tip: Apply a thin coat of 303 Aerospace Protectant or silicone-based rubber conditioner to gaskets twice a year. This keeps them supple and extends their life, especially in hot/dry climates where rubber degrades faster.
Hardware & Mounting
Mounting bolts
The M1 mounts to your truck using bolts that attach to the bed rails. These can loosen from road vibration, especially after off-road driving. Check torque before every trip. If you notice any movement or play in the camper when you push on it, re-torque immediately.
T-track hardware
Periodically check all T-track mounted accessories (shelving, lights, racks) for looseness. The M6 hardware in the M1's native T-track can slowly loosen from vibration. Use thread-locking compound (blue Loctite) on hardware that shouldn't move: shelves, fridge mounts, heavy accessories. Skip it on hardware you want to reposition.
Hinges and latches
- Lubricate hinges on all doors (side awning, rear, pop-top) with a dry PTFE lubricant or white lithium grease every 3–6 months.
- Southco C2-43-25 latches (if upgraded): marine-grade and low-maintenance, but benefit from occasional PTFE spray on the cam mechanism.
- Pop-top struts: The gas struts that assist the pop-top opening should be checked annually. If the pop-top doesn't hold itself up firmly or feels sluggish, the struts may need replacement.
Electrical System Care
Battery maintenance
- LiFePO4 batteries require minimal maintenance. No watering, no equalization. Keep them above 20% state of charge for longevity. Store at 50–60% charge if the camper will sit unused for more than a month.
- Check terminal connections annually for corrosion or looseness. Clean with a wire brush if needed and apply dielectric grease.
- Cold weather: LiFePO4 batteries cannot charge below 32°F (0°C), the BMS will block it. This doesn't damage the battery, but it means solar won't charge until the battery warms up. Some batteries (Victron Smart, Battle Born with heater) have built-in heating pads that solve this. See the battery guide.
Wiring
- Inspect wiring runs annually for chafe points, especially where wires pass through bulkheads or near sharp edges.
- Check fuse block connections for corrosion or heat damage.
- If you have a DC-DC charger, verify the ground connection is solid and the charging voltage is correct (14.2–14.6V for LiFePO4).
Solar panels
- Clean with water and a soft cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners.
- Check mounting hardware (T-track bolts) for looseness after off-road trips.
- Inspect wiring and connectors at the panel-to-roof junction for weathering or corrosion.
Seasonal Prep
Spring (pre-season)
- Full exterior wash and inspection
- Check all seals and gaskets after winter storage
- Charge the battery fully and verify it holds charge
- Test all electrical systems (lights, fan, heater if equipped)
- Lubricate all hinges and latches
- Check tire pressure on your truck (loaded payload changes handling)
- Run the water system with clean water to flush any stale residue
Fall (pre-winter or pre-storage)
- Drain the water system completely: lines, tanks, pump
- Clean the interior thoroughly (no food crumbs attracting pests)
- Inspect and condition all gaskets with 303 Protectant or silicone conditioner
- If storing for winter: disconnect battery, store at 50–60% charge in a temperature-stable location
- If winter camping: review the winter camping guide for cold-weather prep
Summer considerations
- UV exposure degrades rubber seals and pop-top fabric faster — park in shade when you can, and apply 303 Protectant to gaskets before the hot season.
- A closed camper in direct sun can get hot enough to damage batteries and electronics. Crack a vent if leaving it parked.
- Check truck coolant levels; loaded payload generates more heat than an empty bed.
Storing the M1
On the truck
If leaving the M1 mounted on your truck during storage:
- Close the pop-top and secure all latches
- Disconnect the house battery or turn off the main disconnect switch
- Before sealing up, fully dry the interior — wipe down any condensation, dry the mattress and bedding, and air out fabric surfaces. A dry, sealed camper resists mold and musty smells better than a damp, ventilated one (and keeps pests out at the same time).
- Cover the camper if storing outdoors for extended periods. UV and rain take a toll over months.
Off the truck
The M1 can be removed and stored on the Tune jack system:
- Store on a flat, level surface. Avoid slopes that could stress the jack system.
- Verify the jacks are locked and stable before walking away
- Same prep applies: dry the interior thoroughly, disconnect the battery, then close everything up.
- If storing outdoors, consider a tarp or cover over the pop-top area to protect the tent fabric from UV
Pest prevention: Mice and insects love truck campers in storage. Close all openings, check door gaskets for gaps, and consider mouse deterrent pouches (peppermint-based) inside the camper during extended storage.